All Peru expedition dispatches

Back to camp after successfully topping out on Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)!

The Madison Mountaineering Alpamayo expedition team has returned home after successfully reaching the summit of what’s considered to be one of the most beautiful peaks on the face of the planet: Alpamayo in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca! Excellent weather and route conditions made for smooth climbing on summit day. The route is steep, technical, and not for the faint of heart. But shortly after the sun began to rise, we stepped onto the summit, slapped high-fives, snapped some photos, and celebrated for a short time before starting the descent. After safely making it back to base camp, the celebration continued on and all the way back to Huaraz – a perfect way to finish what was a beautiful expedition. Guide, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch to conclude the 2025 Alpamayo expedition:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Alpamayo (5947m/19,511ft) expedition.

We finished up our climb and had great success up on Alpamayo, fantastic conditions, and great weather up high. It was just our team and one other party of four climbers on the mountain. We just had spectacular views and a beautiful day climbing up the variation of the Ferrari route, and then back down.

(It was a) spectacular expedition and we’re so happy that we had good conditions in Peru. Looking forward to another trip here next summer!

Acclimatization hike early in the expedition (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Acclimatization hike early in the expedition (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The team enjoying an acclimatization hike under sunny skies (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The team enjoying an acclimatization hike under sunny skies (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The team together getting ready to leave the mountains.

The team together getting ready to leave the mountains.

Gazing back upon Alpamayo

Gazing back upon Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Camp on Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Camp on Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Climbers descending back to camp below the steep face of Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Climbers descending back to camp below the steep face of Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The summit ridge at sunrise (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The summit ridge at sunrise (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Morning light over the Cordillera Blanca of Peru (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Morning light over the Cordillera Blanca of Peru (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Our climber, Alix descending down the mountain after successfully reaching the summit (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Our climber, Alix descending down the mountain after successfully reaching the summit (photo by Estalin Suárez)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team enjoying Alpamayo base camp under beautiful, clear-blue skies!

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering Alpamayo and Artesonraju expedition is off to a great start in Peru! The team has had beautiful weather thus far for their acclimatization hikes and trek into base camp. Next up, they will attempt Alpamayo – the first of two peaks they plan to climb on the expedition. Expedition leader, Estalin Suárez checks in with this dispatch from Peru:

Hello! This is Estalin calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Alpamayo (5947m/19,511ft), Peru expedition – today is July 12th. We just got to high camp on Alpamayo which is 5,400 meters. We’ve had a great day, blue skies! Our plan is tonight to attack to the summit, but we are going to see how everybody feels and decide later, or probably stay one more night here.

We departed from Huaraz a couple of days ago. We had really beautiful days hiking to the base camp. Now we are pushing a little bit harder to our first main summit.

Keep in tune. Ciao!

The team at High Camp on Alpamayo!

The team at High Camp on Alpamayo!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Our Peru climbing team has returned from a wonderful expedition in Peru, having climbed stunning glaciated peaks and then touring to the renowned Incan citadel Machu Picchu to take in the breathtaking views. Congratulations to a safe and successful expedition Anis Stabka and team!Peru summitMachu PicchuSunrise on PiscoAbove Machu Picchu

Peru1

Our “High peaks of Peru” team has assembled in the mountain town of Huaraz, Peru, after flying from Lima. A few days of acclimatization are in order befor the climbing begins! Looks like perfect weather!! Enjoy guys!!

Photo 1: the team

Photo 2: the Huaraz airport

Photo 3: a glimpse of the Cordillera Blanca

Chopicalqui and Pisco!

Join us in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru for some fantastic climbing on peaks up to nearly 6400m/21,000 ft. high. We will climb Pisco first (5752m/18,871ft), and then attempt the nearby Chopicalqui (6354m/20,846ft) second. The setting is spectacular, with these and many other jagged high peaks covered in snow, with lush meadows and grasslands below, in addition to crystal clear blue lakes. These peaks are excellent training for higher altitude climbs and are great for building upon technical climbing skills such as cramponing, rope travel, and ice axe technique. We have ample time for acclimatization and utilize high camps to position us for the summit attempts. This is one of our favorite programs in the Andes. The local Peruvians / Quechuas we work with are very positive and engaging, and we are blessed to share time with them in the mountains at our base camp and the high camps.